Blau & Zwei 2015
Organic and biodynamic limited release brand red wine, made with the Austrian varieties Blaufraenkisch 50% and Zweilgt 50%. Aged with 13 months in French and American oak barrels, removing the lees for the first 4 months. Kieninger Winery. Partida Rural Los Frontones. Ronda (Malaga). D.O. Sierras de Málaga.
TERROIR: The soil of the vineyard is loamy, clayey-calcareous with enough sand to have a good drainage function. At 800 meters high. Orientation South-East. Located at gentle slopes, protected from the North. The place is surrounded by centenary oaks, maroons, blackberries, quinces and hawthorn. The treatments of the plants in the vineyard are done through biological means and maturation is carried out in a cellar in stone and underground, following the traditional style of natural fermentation.
TASTING: The first pleasant surprise has been the uncorking, as I find a quality cork, hyper-perfumed and elegantly signed. When serving the glasses, strikes me by the colour of its foam, very tinged to be aged and a beautiful crimson colour, I imagine it is characteristic of these grapes... I decide to skip the first phase, the visual and after having awakened the wine, we analyze its aroma and palate after being so long stored and thus get retronasal before the seduction of rest disappears.
A touch of acidity clearly appears, which evaporates when pairing. Spiced hints: black pepper and some nutmeg. Cocoa and the woody part of the grape cluster coming through. On the palate, cassis, a touch of green pepper, graphite and truffle. Very high robe and subtle presence of tears. Sinuous and curvy wine. Original and noble wine. We accompany it with different delicacies, and we agree that the duck confit praises him, opens and maintains the aftertaste of this wine, the grilled aubergine with some truffle shavings and the French potatoes with mojo picón sauce, also enhance its flavour and yet a smoked sheep cheese transforms it...
As this wine offers me walks and evolutions... for its musical pairing I bet on Modest Mussorgsky's "Pictures of an Orchestra Exhibition".
Being an unprecedented wine for the good adaptation of these Austrian grapes in the Serranía de Ronda, tell you a little about them...
The red grape Blaufränkisch is a variety of dark-skinned, late-ripened grapes. It produces wines that are normally rich in tannins and can exhibit a pronounced spicy character. It has the elegance of Pinot Noir, tannic as Nebbiolo and spiced like Syrah.
For a long time it has been mistaken with Gamay, although no one has been able to demonstrate a degree of relationship between both. In Germany, this grape is known as Lemberger and in Hungary as Kékfrankos. The Blaufränkisch is the mother of Zweigelt, the most planted red grape variety in Austria, the result of a cross of this with the Saint Laurent.
Austrian winemaking is promoted by the Cistercian Monks (so well known in Burgundy, Tuscany and Priorato). Already in the twelfth century some special vineyards for their terroirs stood out in monasteries and abbeys.
The 7 VIN, with D.O. Sierras de Málaga is produced in a winery located in the Serranía de Ronda, but it cannot carry its name, since 100% of the grapes from this subzone must be used for its production, and must also meet other specific requirements.
LEGEND: Legend has it that on St. Martin's Day, the "new wine" arrives ripe to delight the followers of the Heurigen of the area. After its short winemaking process, from the must, through its important fermentation step, this vibrant and almost brand new young wine lends itself to entertaining thousands of palates. There is also the so-called "Gemischter Satz" which is a blend of white grapes, almost always from Riesling, Gruner Veltliner or Weiss Burgunder.
HEURIGEN are wine taverns where young wines are tasted. These taverns were founded by imperial resolution, in August 1789, and it is where every year the new wine is welcomed (Nouveau, Novello, Vineta as you want to call it) from the day of St. Martin (November 11 to December 31). In the Heurigen you can also try the typical dishes of Austrian gastronomy.
Knowing a little more about these berries, their origins and customs, I dare say that it has been a good and risky choice by Martin Kieninger, and grateful to be able to taste this annexation.